Tuesday in Zurich!7:51 AM
Holy jet lag!
I didn't sleep a bit on the plane so I've been wandering Old Town Zurich in full-on zombie mode. It's a gray, drizzly day which is actually perfect for my sleepy mood and means I've gotten to take lots of cozy coffee breaks.
I stopped at an Art Noveau era cafe called Odeon for coffee and breakfast - I was so revived that I didn't even mind that the coffee cost $10.
Zurich is a gorgeous city, even in the rain, and my hostel as a lovely view of the city and the surrounding hills from it's rooftop patio.
Zurich is bisected by the Limmat River and I've spent all day wandering the river banks.
This church is Grossminster which literally means Big Church. Legend has it that Charlemagne consecrated a church on this spot. The bones of the current church were begun in 1100. Unfortunately, like many churches in Switzerland, the Reformation of the 1500s virtually wiped the inside clean of all it's original paintings, sculpture, and stained glass. It's still a beautiful, solemn space (no photos allowed inside though!)
Further down the river I stumbled into the cutest farmers market and purchased the most expensive but also the most delicious apple I've ever had. Total soul nectar.
I continued my jet lagged ramble to the Zurich Kunsthaus or Fine Art Museum. The original building is filled with great Art Nouveau touches (built in 1910) and a really lovely contemporary section has been added on. The collection is wide but surprisingly great, including an iconic Monet water lily, several Van Goghs, and the other big standards often hung in out of the way places so that they spring upon you. They also specialize in Swiss art, particularly Alberto Giacometti (most of who's work is out on loan right now, drat!) and a new discovery for me, the Swiss Symbolist Ferdinand Hodler.
This painting is mesmerizing and huge, 7 or 8 feet wide and glimmers with metallic pigments worked into the tones of the women's skin. I need to read more about this guy!
I'm meeting up with a friend of a friend for a beer in a medieval artillery arsenal in a bit and heading to Bern tomorrow - more photos soon!